One of the items at Sam’s on the Square: Frozen drinks of many colors and flavors.
Photo by Duane A. Laverty

Waitress Kasheda Bonner wheels out a sizzling plate of chicken enchiladas. (Photo by Jerry Larson)

Since the 1930s, Waco’s Castillo family has been a mainstay of Waco’s restaurant scene. Their eateries are time-honored favorites of local residents in both this century and the last.

Along with La Fiesta, the Castillos have even more reason to celebrate this summer, with the opening of Sam’s on the Square downtown.

The legacy began when patriarch Antonio P. Castillo Sr. opened The Aztec Café in the 700 block of Austin Avenue downtown. From 1935 to 1948, the restaurant served delicious Tex-Mex cuisine. It was a popular choice among Baylor students due to the dance hall, nicknamed “the patio,” at the back of the restaurant.

Antonio and his wife Josephine had seven children, each of whom helped in the family business. In 1948, Antonio Castillo opened the El Patio restaurant on 16th Street, serving popular Mexican food entrees. Four years later, El Patio made a bold cross-cultural move by introducing authentic Italian “pizza pie” to Waco, courtesy of an Italian airman then stationed at Waco’s James Connally Air Force Base.

Traditional Tex-Mex enchilada plate, salsa, queso, chips and a frozen margarita have brought hungry Central Texans to La Fiesta since 1963.
Photo by Jerry Larson

Most likely homesick and yearning for traditional foods, the airman taught Antonio and his sons the fine art of crafting pizza the Italian way. The Castillos also learned the proper techniques for making lasagna, spaghetti and manicotti — all dishes that were hugely popular with servicemen at the base who hailed from the northeastern states.

The Castillos lost no time capitalizing on this new opportunity and added the Italian selections to the menu alongside their traditional Tex-Mex dishes. Renamed The Italian Village in 1952, the restaurant operated there until closing in 1986.

In 1963, one of Antonio’s sons, Sam Castillo Sr., followed in his father’s footsteps and opened his own restaurant at 18th Street and Washington Avenue. He named it La Fiesta Restaurant and Cantina, and in 1972 moved it to its present site, Franklin Avenue at Valley Mills Drive. It’s been a favorite among residents ever since.

Shortly after opening the new location, his son, Sam Castillo Jr., left the University of Texas to return to Waco and help his dad run the operation.

Sam Castillo, his mother Wanda Patlis, his sister Vicki Castillo-Libby and longtime employee Louis Salinas Jr. in the old La Fiesta dining room. The Castillo family operates three La Fiesta locations and just opened a new restaurant called Sam’s on the Square in downtown Waco.
Photo by Jerry Larson

“In 1978, my dad died unexpectedly and my mom, Wanda, took the helm of our business, kept it going and made it grow,” Sam Castillo Jr. said. “Mom ran the operation for 12 years or more before she fully retired. She did an amazing job. I’ve worked here since I was 19 and my sister, Vicki Castillo, has been here even longer than me.”

La Fiesta Restaurant has been voted Waco’s favorite Mexican Restaurant many times in Tribune-Herald readers’ polls. It is recognized for its queso (a secret family recipe), salsa, margaritas and enchiladas.

“We understand that as time changes, so do tastes,” Sam said. “The bulk of what we sell is Tex-Mex plates — your basic ‘Texas comfort food.’ That’s enchiladas, rice, beans, guacamole, tamales, et cetera. But we also strive to keep up with the changing palates of our customers by serving more interior-style Mexican food, different sauces, leaner meals, specialty salads and diet-friendly entrees, too.”

That means the Castillos don’t forget the favorites of long-standing patrons who need no menu. They just order their combo plate from menus long since discarded. “Sometimes, people who have dined with us for 20 or 30 years will order an entree from memory, and we’re happy to make it for them,” Sam said. He recently purchased one of La Fiesta’s out-of-print menus on eBay after a customer told him it was listed for sale online.

La Fiesta’s Franklin location is one of the few full-service restaurants in town that offers drive-through meal pick-up. Sam said customers can order a meal online and then pick it up at the take-out window. At www.lafiesta.com, they can join the customer club and sign up for MVP Loyalty Rewards Program, get members-only discounts and specials, check out menus and live music schedules, and send feedback with the “Tell Sam” Survey.

Sizzling beef fajitas with all the fixings and cold beer are a La Fiesta tradition.
Photo by Jerry Larson

The Castillos are always looking for ways to improve and give their customers the best of old and new. At the Franklin Avenue location, the older dining area looks much like it did originally, even though it has been redecorated and refurbished many times. The festive, party ambience reflects the establishment’s namesake.

Behind this room is a large, private area that can be reserved for parties. On the other side of the restaurant, the large bar offers handmade, hand-shaken drinks. This area overlooks the second dining room. It features a sports bar atmosphere, complete with cozy booths, high-definition TVs and live music. Outdoor patio seating also is available. Nearby, the Fiesta House provides full- or-self-service catering and a large banquet facility for receptions and large celebrations. La Fiesta offers off-site catering as well.

For the Castillos, the family business provides a connection to the community that spans generations. “We have customers I met for the first time when they were in a high chair, here with their parents. Later, they come with friends, then a spouse, then with their children,” Sam said. “It’s very rewarding to serve the regulars who come here to dine and share time with those who are important to them. We’ve made so many friends and acquaintances over the years. It’s always a joy to see familiar faces come through our doors again and again.”

La Fiesta is one of the few local full-service restaurants with a drive-through. Estrella Ramon provides personal delivery.
Photo by Jerry Larson

Sam said he’s also proud that the family business has provided work for so many over the decades. “Our business has provided stable employment for hundreds of employees since 1930,” he said. “We’ve had lots of students who paid their way through college working here. Some went on to study law or attend medical school. What a great thing to watch as young people make their own way and then become prominent leaders in our community.”

Sam said that the restaurant business is hard work, requiring long hours and lots of dedication. “Competition is tough in Waco — there are many wonderful places to eat in town,” he said. “But in the end, that’s good for everybody because it makes us work harder and be better at what we do.”

In addition to its spot on Franklin Avenue, La Fiesta has locations on Hewitt Drive in West Waco and on North 19th Street, past Lake Shore Drive in Bosqueville. Sam is most often at the Franklin location, his sister Vicki operates the Hewitt restaurant and his daughter, Lynsey Ochoa, is at the Bosqueville location. Cousins Richard and Tony Castillo operate Casa de Castillo restaurant on Sanger Avenue.

The newest addition to the Castillo enterprises is Sam’s on the Square at Fourth Street and Austin Avenue. A definite break from tradition, the restaurant features an urban-sleek, minimalist style décor and incorporates greener packaging.

Sam’s on the Square features a sleek, urban atmosphere with an a la carte menu that offers diners a wide array of choices.
Photo by Duane A. Laverty

Sam Castillo III, Mary Jane Castillo, Sam Castillo and Adam Whitaker at Sam’s on the Square. The younger Sam and Adam are managing the restaurant.
Photo by Duane A. Laverty

Its lunch and dinner menu are a la carte. This offers diners many selections to go with the flour and corn tortillas made there daily. The menu allows customers to sample several cuisines, including Korean barbecue, Asian noodle/shrimp salad and Mediterranean chili-citrus chicken tenders. The restaurant plans to serve breakfast, too. A lounge/bar upstairs offers views of downtown. Downstairs, a roll-up garage door creates an open-air patio.

“It’s similar to a tapas bar and includes influences from many other cultures,” Sam said. “It’s good value at a good price and will undoubtedly appeal to the health-conscious crowd. We’re excited to be part of downtown Waco’s new growth and revitalization. It’s personally significant to me because my grandfather sold hot peanuts on this corner before he started his first restaurant.”

The new eatery is managed by Sam’s son, Sam Castillo III, and stepson Adam Whitaker.

It’s hard to attribute the Castillo restaurants’ success to any one factor. They are committed to honoring decades-old family recipes with the same fresh ingredients and expert preparation that their customers expect.

As they remain true to the traditions and work ethic that have served them well, the Castillos try to stay current with the changing demands of patrons who often become regulars. Their continued endeavors have earned them the distinction of being one of the oldest restaurant families in Central Texas still in business today.