Grilled basa fillet with grilled shrimp and scallops, $20.99.

Henry Ung and Sarah Shaw welcome patrons.

One of Waco’s newer restaurants, Ocean Fish & Steak occupies the former location of a longtime Chinese restaurant in Waco.

But the new eatery emphasizes a variety of seafoods, sizzling steaks and a wide array of menu items that even includes fried alligator.

Henry Ung opened the business in December after operating a successful establishment in the Austin suburb of Taylor for a few years. He was encouraged to relocate to a bigger city, and found Austin a bit too big and pricey, but Waco just right.

It’s been long journey for Henry to reach Central Texas. He grew up in Cambodia’s capital city of Phnom Penh in the aftermath of a reign of terror by the Khmer Rouge. That faction ruled Cambodia during Henry’s childhood, and about 2 million Cambodians were killed during that time, including Henry’s dad. Henry said he doesn’t know what happened to his real mom. They were separated during his childhood, and another woman raised him.

Fortunately, the Khmer Rouge were ousted from power, and Henry was able to attend school. Gradually, life became better for Cambodians. Henry worked as a doctor and also owned a chicken farm. But a Cambodian friend urged him to go to the United States, and he arrived in Seattle in May 2004.

“It was not easy to find a job in Seattle,” Henry said. He knew other Cambodians in Texas, and decided to head south. “Plus, it was cold and wet in Seattle, and I like the warmth better.”

He worked in seafood restaurants in Baytown and Brenham before opening his own business, which thrived in Taylor. Although business has started off slowly at his Waco location, he hopes more people will soon take notice.

A steak and shrimp dinner with homemade steak sauce, $21.99.

Ocean’s assistant manager, Sarah Shaw, joined the restaurant when it opened, and said variety is one of its strengths.

“We have a lot of specialties,” Sarah said. “Crawfish and shrimp etouffee, which not that common around Waco. We have grilled scallops, stuffed coconut shrimp — even alligator. It’s not just steak and seafood. We also have all kinds of appetizers and hamburgers.” In homage to Texas tradition, chicken-fried steak is also available.

Sarah said her favorite dish is fried oysters. The oysters are delivered from Montego Bay, she said.

Another menu item is fresh crawfish, kept alive until they’re cooked for customers.

There’s also a bar, offering wine and beer.

For dessert, there’s cheesecake, Dutch apple pie and ice cream.

Henry has kept the same menu that led to a bustling business in Taylor.

“He makes all the sauces and salad dressings,” Sarah said. Customers have taken notice, she added. Once, they ran out of a sauce and served some from a store. Customers detected the difference, she said.

Entree prices for adults range from $6.99 for a hamburger or chef salad to $26.99 for a pair of grilled lobster tails. There are also lunch specials from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Henry said when he first visited the United States at a friend’s recommendation, he didn’t intend to stay. But he fell in love with America. He also came to greatly appreciate Waco.

“I love Waco so much,” he said. “I’d love to stay here a long time. I’m so happy in my life when I meet people. I want the people of Waco to know I’d love to serve them good food. I personally select all the food for the best quality.”

Pre-meal rolls feature a “secret” sweet sauce and are served with each meal.

Henry said he loves to cook, and he’s happiest when the restaurant is busy.

“I love it when customers come back and they like the food,” he said.

He has hosted several parties for customers and often decorates for these special events.

“That’s something he loves to do” — providing special attention for customers, Sarah said.

“We’d love for people to stop in and try us. We offer really big portions and excellent food. This is a place I think people would really like.”

Ocean Fish & Steak

565 N. Valley Mills Drive

In Westview Village next to Cavender’s Boot City

751-1993

Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily