The call of the train beckons first — a familiar, even romantic, sound that harks back to simpler times. Cross the tracks and turn left onto Main Street in West, and you’re met by antiqued storefronts that boast fresh flowers, dry goods and appealing eateries.

A distinctive, Germanic-style storefront adds a touch of Old World charm with its weathered slates and stained glass. It’s home to Café Vin, where a delicious slice of Czech heritage — with a unique twist — awaits.

European ambience

A low-lit interior reflects the ambience of a European wine-cellar restaurant with grapevines, soft amber colors and rich woodwork. A mirrored wine bar in the back features draft, Czech and other European beers, plus wines and homemade sangria. A long diner bar in the front sports upholstered stools and a glass dessert case loaded with homemade delights.

“Nana makes the Dr Pepper cake,” says employee Kelly Smith, “along with our homemade sauerkraut.” “Nana” is just one of the staffers who have longtime familial and friendship ties to owners James Johnson III, Michael E. Moore and Darryl Barton.

“It’s a family around here in every way,” Smith said. “We’ve all known each other most of our lives, in one way or another. You won’t ever catch anyone here saying ‘that’s not my job.’ We all do whatever it takes to make our customers happy and to make this place a success.”

Server and baker Robert Sprouse, 19, dishes up buttery, herb-covered Czech potatoes while pointing out Smith’s modest omission: She made the towering peanut butter cake on the top shelf. There’s also a sopapilla cheesecake layered with cinnamon sugar crusts.

Sprouse makes a variety of burgers that are Café Vin’s Saturday special, and whips up tasty berry cobblers when the mood strikes.

“I’ve wanted (to be a chef) since fifth grade,” he said, describing his plans to attend Texas State Technical College’s culinary school.

Co-owner Darryl Barton said he and his partners wanted to make Café Vin a little different “without being too frou-frou, if that makes sense. We’re building the wine garden out back; that will be unique in West. We offer Czech specialties, but also Cajun food, Italian food, deep Southern food.”

There’s live music most weekends, said Barton, who also serves on West’s police force. “Families can bring their kids and feel at home. We basically want it to be a place where both people that do and don’t love wine can just relax and have fun.”

Cafe Vin owners Darryl Barton (left), Michael Moore (center) and James Johnson want to make Cafe Vin a little different without being “too frou-frou.”
Photo by Duane A. Laverty

Homemade desserts are Café Vin’s speciality. The Pirouette chocolate cake is available by the slice ($4.99) or whole ($40).
Photo by Duane A. Laverty

Nana Radle serves visitors Louise and Louis Moore from Bryan. They’re having the Czech plate (pictured at right) with Nana’s secret recipe sauerkraut.
Photo by Duane A. Laverty

Mesquite-grilled chicken breast dinner with rosemary potatoes, $8.99.
Photo by Duane A. Laverty

One recipe at a time

Barton’s grandparents, aunt and uncle ran the Friendship Café in West for many years, giving him access to “incredible recipes — and history, which I really value highly,” said co-owner James Johnson III. “People used to come from Dallas and Fort Worth to West with Mason jars to fill full of the Friendship Café’s chili and stew. ... We serve the same recipe right here, along with other famous Friendship Café recipes.”

Partner and principal chef Michael E. Moore took the lead in decorating the restaurant, the former site of Sulak’s Café. The owners worked hard to preserve original features such as woodwork and stained glass. “Our Jerry Potato is in honor of Jerry Mazanek of that café,” said Johnson, former head of West’s downtown historical society.

Johnson said the Main Street buildings of West probably were constructed about 1865, that the space Café Vin now occupies was part of an old mercantile — and that the premises are haunted. “The McLennan County Paranormal Investigators spotted our tall, gentle ghost who hangs out in the back hallway,” he said. “We call him Constable Pockets; there’s a photo of him in Mimi’s bakery around the corner. We’re fairly sure it’s him. Even customers have seen him.”

The adventure and fun of creating a restaurant has always appealed to Johnson, who worked for 15 years in herpetology and marine biology with Cameron Park Zoo. His many trips to Europe and across the United States informed his sensibilities about food and ambience.

“I’m a huge New Orleans fan, so I’m incorporating that vibe into the wine garden out back,” he said. “Tuscan water features, very open air yet covered, very relaxing.”

Johnson sees Cafe Vin as complementing other restaurants in West, rather than competing. “To be honest, we didn’t even offer specifically Czech dishes in the beginning, because we felt others were serving that niche well,” he said. “But customers see the facade on our building and naturally come in here expecting something Czech to be offered. So we’ve added that to our menu.”

Platters of steaming Czech sausages, Nana’s sweet-yet-tangy sauerkraut and warm parsleyed potatoes attest to Café Vin’s success on that score. European offerings share the menu with southern-fried catfish, chunky cole slaws, and spicy Cajun potatoes and hot dogs.

A wine sipper’s platter and “just a snack” appetizers combine creamy and sharp cheeses with fresh fruits and Czech sausages.

“I honestly love to tailor our specials to our live music,” Johnson said. “When Classie Ballou plays, I might have southern-fried pork chops. If the Horton Duo is in town, it might be something Celtic like Shepherd’s pie. I love a Sicilian faccia for something Italian.” The staff of Café Vin posts the nightly chef specials faithfully on the restaurant’s Facebook page and website.

Johnson and his staff choose local suppliers whenever possible, from fresh flowers to select baked goods and ingredients. “We want to bring the town up, be a partner, fill an empty building, contribute to the local sales tax,” he said. “We want to help visitors realize that downtown is beyond the interstate. It’s deeply important to support your town.”

Although Café Vin has been open only since March, Johnson said things are going well.

“When I look back, I’m amazed we’ve come so far,” he said. “It’s an organic process, and we’re having a lot of fun with it.”

Café Vin

Photo by Duane A. Laverty

208 N. Main St. in West

From Waco: I-35 North to Exit 353; drive east on Oak Street to a left on Main directly after crossing railroad tracks in West’s downtown

www.cafevinofwest.com
254-826-3011

Live music most weekends
Free Wi-Fi

Sun. / Tue. / Wed. / Thur. 8 a.m.–10 p.m.
Mon. 11 a.m.–10 p.m.
Fri. / Sat. 8 a.m.-midnight

From left: Brent Bridges, Robert Sprouse, Kelly Smith, Laura Watlington, Nana Radle, Jeremy Davis.
(Photo by Duane A. Laverty)