Manager Trey Jansing serves his signature Skittles shots to thirsty patrons.
Photo by Jose Yau

Sarah Ervin (from left), Amanda Hixson and Noelle Argubright enjoy Barnett’s relaxed atmosphere. (Photo by Jose Yau)

O n a late summer afternoon cut by the searing sun, workers don’t so much leave the office as scuttle from it, desperate for relief from the wall of heat.

In growing numbers, their steps are leading them to Barnett’s Pub, an Old World tavern at Fifth Street and Franklin Avenue. It’s dark and cool as a cavern, and as gorgeous as it is welcoming. The historic three-story slice of downtown Waco was reimagined and remodeled in spring 2010 as a true Irish pub by hometown owner Tom Chase. Since then, it has become a social center of village life for young and old.

“I like walking into something original,” said manager Trey Jansing as he polishes glasses and checks on a batch of his renowned Skittles shots in preparation for the evening’s clientele. “I was born and raised here. I know the Waco bars, I know the honky-tonks, I know the Baylor legacies. And there’s a place for all that — but that’s not what we are.”

He gestures to the décor, a blend of Celtic sports memorabilia, portraits of Irish writers, and myriad displays of pedigreed bottled beers, ales and meads. It’s all set against warm colors in the pleasantly dim lamplight and framed by built-in cabinetry and woodwork original to the century-plus structure.

“Tom and his wife, Penny, have traveled all over the world; when it came to thinking about Barnett’s, they were looking closely at the décor, the structure, the drinks and food and service, particularly of pubs in the United Kingdom and Ireland,” Jansing said. “They didn’t want just another bar, and neither do I. I’m not a fan of going out to bars, in fact — never have been.”

Debbie Swaner, known to customers simply as “Mom,” handles the cooking at Barnett’s.
Photo by Jose Yau

Penny Chase, who owns the pub with her husband, Tom, said families are welcome. Her granddaughters Daisy (left) and Helen bring their dolls and coloring books and make themselves at home.
Photo by Jose Yau

Barnett’s is a true pub, he said, a place to enjoy a drink in an unhurried atmosphere. “This is a gathering place where you meet up with friends for a pint or two to plan an evening out, where you come after the game to relax and talk it over with a good Scotch, where mature students who know how to hang with working adults chill on the couches and study or surf with our free Wi-Fi.” Jansing even stocks coffees, hot chocolate and fine teas for an end-of-evening wind-down.

Jansing’s mother, Debbie Swaner, complements the homey atmosphere by cooking up everything from Shepherd’s pie and Irish stew to top-notch grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup. The bar menu runs the gamut from generous appetizers to kids’ meals of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for a family evening out.

“Kids are completely welcome here,” said Swaner, whom customers routinely refer to as “Mom.” To underscore her point, there’s a cabinet loaded with crayons and art supplies accessible to wee diners. “It’s definitely more of a business and family crowd before 9, then gets a bit younger for the rest of the evening.”

People from all over the world — Africa, England and, of course, Ireland — have stopped by for an evening out, Jansing said. “Almost every time, they tell me it feels like home,” he said. Indeed, at the bar on this early evening is a man from Hong Kong via Galway, clearly enjoying a pint of Guinness with a business partner. “If even they’re saying it’s a genuine pub experience, then we’re successful at what we’re doing here.”

Jansing said that Barnett’s is a safe environment, and he cuts off strangers and friends alike when they’ve had enough to drink. “I despise drunk driving and I won’t put up with it,” he said. “Everyone from ministers to Rotary members to whole-house parties for law or pre-med students are comfortable here. We’ve even performed weddings — I’m an ordained minister,” he said with a laugh — as though that fact is often met with disbelief.

“Bob Beechner (another prominent figure at the bar, with ginger hair and newsboy cap) and I are the same in so many ways — we’re both Scots-Irish guys with a love for and deep knowledge of good lagers, ales and stouts, great Scotches and whiskeys, and we love to share that with customers,” Jansing said. “So many times we’ll have folks come in here, grab a seat, stare at the options, and then just ask us to bring them something we recommend.”

Asked to encapsulate the appeal and growing popularity of the pub, Jansing doesn’t hesitate. “The people who come here feel comfortable, and they enjoy quality.” His eyes gleam as he ties this mission to the larger purpose of Barnett’s: “This isn’t just about a great, genuine pub — though that’s exactly what this is. This is about downtown Waco — about the restoration of downtown Waco to its greatness, pre-1953 (when a tornado devastated the area). Barnett’s is part of the renovation of downtown.”

Shepherd’s pie, a meaty comfort food with bacon-topped potatoes, $7.25.
Photo by Jose Yau

Grilled cheese sandwich, $5.95
Photo by Jose Yau

S’mores, a rich chocolate brownie topped with fire-toasted marshmallows, $5.95
Photo by Jose Yau

Irish nachos featuring kettle potato chips topped with Irish cheese sauce, crisp bacon and peppers, $5.95
Photo by Jose Yau

Dream to reality

Tom Chase, owner of Barnett’s Pub, strolls in a bit after 5. As main shareholder of Insurors of Texas just around the corner, Chase affirms Jansing’s statement that Barnett’s is the culmination of many years’ dreaming, planning and hard work.

“The building, interestingly, has served Waco as everything from an undertaker’s at the turn of the century to a printing shop in more recent years. You can see how the beautiful old façade was ripped off,” he said, gesturing to a photocopied early 1900s image. “And we’ve done what we can to restore it to an older, more authentic look and feel — including preserving that long neon sign out front.”

At the bar, Chase discusses the decline and current renovation of Waco’s downtown streets. “The reason Trey mentions 1953 as a turning point is that when people began to get their insurance payouts after the tornado, they took that money to Valley Mills Drive, to the suburbs — it wasn’t reinvested in downtown.” The devastated multiblock area began a long slide that only in recent years has begun to see investment and improvement from businessmen and entities such as the Chamber of Commerce, City of Waco and the Public Improvement District, which Chase chairs.

“We want to be known as the friendly Irish pub,” he said, confirming plans for beer classes, wine tastings, Scotch samplings and other activities for autumn and winter. “We like to keep the menu Irish, a nice selection of Irish, European and microbrewed beers, and we’re growing our fine liquor collection all the time since we received our liquor license a few months ago.

“At heart,” Chase said, “Barnett’s is about conviviality, and being a great part of the growth of Waco’s downtown.”

Barnett’s Pub

420 Franklin Ave.

www.barnettspub.com

254-714-1356

Tue./Wed. 4-11 p.m.

Thu. 4 p.m.-midnight

Fri./Sat. 4 p.m.-1 a.m.

Sun./Mon. Closed

Pub specials include daily Happy Hours, discounted keg taps every other Tuesday, Well Wednesdays, Thursday Ladies’ Nights, Downtown Fridays and Shamrock Saturdays. Regular celebration of Irish, American and local holidays bring other specials to Barnett’s.