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A Pinch of Nutmeg
I was helping my daughter with the “Tree Party” that her class was having - a seasonal celebration to learn about things that grow on trees. While her assignment was to bring chocolate chips, the foodie in me couldn’t let it rest at just chocolate chips. I like chocolate a lot, but I am not a chocoholic. (Many say that the love for chocolate is hereditary! My dad LOVES chocolate, but my mom could live without it.) I dug in the pantry searching for something more real than chocolate chips.
What I came up with was not chocolate at all, but was one of my favorite spices - nutmeg. On occasion I will purchase the powdered stuff, but I found “real McCoy,” whole nutmeg seed. I could get excited about this, much more so than about chocolate.
Like any good mom, I am trying to correct all my own deficiencies vicariously through my daughter. So, we began researching nutmeg. She even got excited about nutmeg. The Fourth Edition of FOOD LOVER’S COMPANION by Sharon Tyler Herbst and Ron Herbst says the following:
Nutmeg: When Columbus sailed from Spain looking for the East Indies, nutmeg was one of the spices for which he was searching. Native to the Spice Islands, this seed from the nutmeg tree (a tropical evergreen) was extremely popular throughout much of the world from the 15th to the 19th century. When the fruit of the tree is picked, it is split to reveal the nutmeg seed surrounded by a lacy membrane that, when dried and ground, becomes the spice MACE. The hard, egg-shaped nutmeg seed is grayish-brown and about 1 inch long. The flavor and aroma are delicately warm, spicy and sweet. Nutmeg is sold ground or whole. Whole nutmeg freshly ground with a nutmeg grater or grinder is superior to that which is commercially ground and packaged. Nutmeg is excellent when used in baked goods, mild- or cream-based preparations like custarrds, white sauces or eggnog and on fruits and vegetables - particularly potatoes, spinach and squash.
Wouldn’t it be great to be referred to as “delicately warm, spicy and sweet?” Adding a touch of nutmeg to Butternut Squash Soup or to Beef Stroganoff adds another dimension to its flavor. Its aroma flourishes in warm apple cider and hot spiced wine. Below is the best Butternut Squash Soup recipe I have ever tried. It is from the November 1996 issue of BON APPETIT. It only adds a pinch of nutmeg, but that pinch makes a big difference. Page 196 in this issue is always stuck to page 197 when I break it out to make it again - and again.
Butternut Squash Soup
5 T. butter
1 large onion, choppped
2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
4 cups (or more) canned low-salt chicken broth
Pinch of ground nutmeg
1/2 cup whipping cream
Additional ground nutmeg
Melt butter in heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute’ until tender, about 5 minutes. Add squash and saute’ 5 minutes. Add 4 cups broth and nutmeg. Cover and simmer until squash is tender, about 20 minutes
Working in batches, puree soup in blender until smooth. Return to same pan. Stir in cream. Bring soup to simmer. Season to taste with salt, pepper and additional nutmeg. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Before serving, rewarm over medium heat, thinning with more broth if necessary.)
Happy Cooking and Eating!
Comments
By Kristin Hill
October 4, 2008 9:17 PM | Link to this
Karen, I can’t wait to try the soup… it sounds delicious. I love that you “talk” about the food ingredients first and also about people in your life with whom you are experiencing food or cooking… (that gets me interested) and then follow with the recipe. I never get excited about reading recipes without history attatched…
Anyone remember Kevin Tankersly? He used to do that in the Trib years ago. Thanks for bringing it back and happy cooking with your daughter!! KH
By cheryl pomerenke
October 5, 2008 10:02 AM | Link to this
Loved your mom’s cornbread & the beans saturday. I went home with my purchases & made a pie crust with my new mixing bowl, measuring spoons and the pie crust maker. I loved the pie crust maker. Can’t wait to buy something else, what a great toy store for cooks. Cheryl
By chef oz
October 6, 2008 9:16 AM | Link to this
Howdy Karyn,
Butternut squash soup is a favorite at many of the dinner parties I prepare for folks. My recipe is a little more complicated—I roast the bulb portion of the squash with garlic and thyme. You can really have some fun with the garnishes. I like fried sage leaves, pancetta lardons, and nutmeg creme fraiche. Decorate the surface of each soup serving and drizzle on a few drops of peppery olive oil—very Jackson Pollack.
By Karyn Miller
October 6, 2008 9:43 AM | Link to this
Mike:
Awesome suggestions!
Thanks and I’m looking forward to the classes you’ll be teaching at the store. Karyn
By Karyn Miller
October 8, 2008 8:24 AM | Link to this
Kristin: I really like to know the history behind a recipe, a process, or just about anything. Thanks for reading and commenting!