Home > Everyday Gourmet
Dear Mom, I’m Sorry
Dear Mom:
I am so very sorry that I have made fun of your Candied Orange Peel. For many of my 43 years I have watched you slave over this delicacy every holiday season - peeling the oranges, removing only part of the bitter pith, soaking and re-soaking and re-soaking yet again, stirring constantly, wiping down the sides of the pan, stirring more, letting it dry and occupy our oven for what seemed like days, rolling it in sugar - to create a colorful, sparkling candy that I (and probably the rest of my family) simply did not appreciate. We knew how much you loved it, but we thought it was a waste of time, completely passé, and, quite frankly not really that tasty.
According to the December 2008 issues of Bon Appétit and Cooking Light, and likely a plethora of other cooking magazines, it IS NOT a waste of time at all, it is absolutely fashionable, and it IS THAT TASTY. Well, if it’s good enough for Bon Appétit, then it’s good enough for me.
Mom, as usual, you know your stuff, and you are so avant gard, that I just didn’t get it. Thanks for keeping me up-to-date by proving that everything old is new again. And thanks for being such a fabulous cook.
Love, Karyn
P.S. May I have your recipe now?
Candied orange peel makes a stunning garnish to both sweet and savory dishes - from chocolate desserts and cakes (see www.bhg.com recipe for Pumpkin Torte) toppings, butternut squash soups to salads. If I can convince Mom to share her recipe, I will try candied orange peel on a salad of mixed greens with spicy pecans, blue cheese and hibiscus syrup vinaigrette. Even if it doesn’t taste good, it will be beautiful, and that’s half the battle, isn’t it?
Cook’s Note from Foodnetwork.com on their candied orange peel recipe: One way to use orange peels is to stuff a dried date with a piece of orange peel and almond, then dip the entire thing into dark chocolate.
Permalink | Comments (0) | Post your comment |
Fondue and Dog Treats
Today at Gourmet Gallery, we made fondue - cheese, chocolate, and caramel - and dog treats. The fondue was to satiate my first hankering for holiday warmth. The dog treats were to satisfy my daughter’s curiosity and to take home to our little, yappy, black dog whom we consider one of us.
The cheese fondue was fabulous with the dog treats. Yes, really. We all tasted the dog treats. They were, after all, made from people-friendly ingredients like flour, eggs, chicken broth, and baking soda. (Recipe to follow.) So, we feasted on a rather biscuit-like bread with cheese fondue for our lunch. The local cheese- and dog-lovers were equally as excited as we were. A meal fit for royalty.
Fondue is a French word for “melted,” according to Fondue by Robert Carmack. It originated in the Swiss Alps, and the traditional fondue is a blend of cheese melted with alcohol. Today all sorts of things can go into fondue, from vegetables and fruits to meat and seafoods. Carmack says that the Swiss divide fondues into five distinct categories: 1. Cheese (somewhat obvious). 2. Burgundian (Raw meats are cooked in simmering oil served with a variety of sauces). 3. Bacchus (Wine is used instead of oil to cook thinly sliced meats.) 4. Asian (Boiling water or broth is used to cook the meat in a large donut-shaped “pot.”) 5. Chocolate (also somewhat obvious). Each is distinct and delicious.
Our chocolate fondue experiment was actually nothing more than melted Reese’s Peanut Butter cups mixed with whipping cream. Of the three, this was my daughter’s favorite. I might choose something a bit more sophisticated for a party, but we had Reese’s in the pantry. The Rocky road fondue recipe that follows is a sure bet. Both of the following fondue recipes are adapted from Robert Carmack’s cookbook Fondue.
Rocky Road Fondue
9 oz milk chocolate, chopped
1/2 cup sweetened condensed milk
1/2 cup cream
1 tablespoon strong brewed coffee
1 tablespoon rum (optional)
4 oz large marshmallows
1/2 cup unsalted mixed nuts, lightly toasted and finely ground
Additional marshmallows, lady fingers, cookies, graham cracker sticks for dipping.
Combine chocolate, milk, cream, coffee and rum in a microwave-proof bowl. Microwave on high for 30 seconds. Stir and microwave in short intervals and stir until thoroughly melted and well-blended. Pour into fondue pot. Cut 4 oz of marshmallows in half and gently incorporate into chocolate mixture. Sprinkle a few nuts on top. This is a creative and fun dessert for about six people. A nice dry champagne or sparkling wine would be a lovely accompaniment.
Fondue Mexicana
1 cup beer
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
6 small fresh chilies, seeded an dcoarsely chopped
1/2 bell pepper, seeded and diced
1 lb Montery Jack cheese, shredded
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon paprika
Pinch of ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
Tortilla chips for serving
In a heavy, medium saucepan, heat beer over high heat until it foams. Add lemon juice, chilies and bell pepper. Reduce heat to medium. Toss cheese with the flour, paprika, and cumin, then add to the pan, one handful at a time, stirring to melt each handful. Add salt. Transfer to a warm fondue pot. Serve with tortilla chips. Serves 4-6.
Basic Bones Dog Treats
From The Ultimate Dog Treat Cookbook by Liz Palika
Makes 25-30 3”-long dog bone-shaped cookies
3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup nonfat dry milk
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup low-sodium beef or chicken bouillon powder
2 large eggs
1 cup warm water.
Preheat oven to 350 degree. Mix all the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Slowly add the warm water and eggs and mix well. The dough will be stiff. Use your hands to knead the dough until it is smooth and easy to handle, and then form it into a ball. Place the ball on a floured breadboard. Roll the dough out to 1/4-3/8” thick. Use a 3” dog bone-shaped cookie cutter (or any other cookie cutter that your dog likes) to cut out the dough. Place the bones on greased cookie sheets. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown.
These treats pair especially well with a classic Neuchatel fondue and a dry white wine, or with a big bowl of water and a pat on the head.
All of the recipes today can lend to a cozier, happier, more animal-friendly holiday season.
Happy Cooking, Eating, and Petting!
Permalink | Comments (2) | Post your comment |
Paella Me!
Paella (pi-AY-yuh) A Spanish dish of saffron-flavored rice combined with a variety of meats and shellfish (such as shrimp, lobster, clams, chicken, pork, ham and chorizo), garlic onions, peas, artichoke hearts and tomatoes. It is named after the special two-handled paella pan in which it is prepared and served. The pan is wide, shallow and 13 to 14 inches in diameter.
John Yager has mastered the art of “paellaing.” John is a brilliant mechanic, husband, father, and, more recently, chef extraordinaire. I love talking food with him. He really knows his stuff. Below is an article he recently wrote about Paella. I hope that he doesn’t mind my sharing his fabulous recipe. Thanks, John. Can’t wait for you to come back to Gourmet Gallery to conduct another Paella class!
The Legend of Paella
by John Yager
According to Spanish legend, if you ask a man from Andalucia for his paella receipe, he will be obliged to provide at least three recipes: his own, his wife’s and his mother’s.
I am now convinced there is magic at work in the preparation of this bounteous feast. The cook should be warned, therefore, that while he or she can set the course, the final destination revealing the exotic tastes, textures and colors of this most celebratory dish is determined by forces in the universe over which cooks have scant control.
The name paella derives from the pan, called paellera, and does not refer to any ingredient. As best I can determine, the only requirements for authentic paella are the pan, rice, olive oil, and saffron. The remainder is determined by the cook.
The paellera has a circular configuration, about two inches deep, with two handles. It is made of metal which rusts easily so it must be dried completely after washing. You may also find pans with the same general appearance but made from more fashionable materials, sometimes brightly colored. These are just fine for cooking paella, but no pan is more efficient than a cast iron frying pan because of its heat distribution properties and capacity to retain heat for extended time after cooking is completed. Paella looks great in whatever you cook it, and nothing tastes better.
The paella described here is based on the Valencia model which includes shellfish and meat and begins with a potent base of flavor called sofrito.
This recipe has evolved over the years, but the technique for preparation has remained constant.
Paella Espania
14” Paella pan
6 chicken thighs
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
Salt and black pepper
Pinch of sweet paprika
1 teaspoon saffron threads
1/4 cup olive oil
2 chorizo sausages
1/3 yellow onion minced
3 tablespoons roasted garlic
1 can tomato paste
1 1/2 cups medium grain rice
3 cups chicken broth
3 small lobster tails, split
1/4 lb calamari rings
1/2 lb jumbo shrimp
1/2 lb scallops
1/4 cup frozen sweet peas
Lemon wedges
Red peppers cut into strips
Rinse chicken pieces and pat dry. Season with salt, black pepper and oregano. Heat oil in the paella pan. Brown chicken on all sides, when nearly cooked through, add the chorizo links, and brown.
Remove the chicken and the sausage from the pan. Cut the sausages into slices and set aside. Drain excess oil, but don’t clean the pan! Make a “sofrito” by sauteing the onions, add the tomato paste and cook until the mixture caramalizes a bit and the flavors meld. Add the roasted garlic, season with salt, black pepper and paprika.
Add the chicken stock and simmer for 10 minutes, gently moving the pan around so the rice cooks and absorbs evenly. DO NOT COVER or constantly stir.
Add the chicken and sausage, simmer without stirring until the rice is al dente. Add the shrimp and lobster tails and let cook for five to seven minutes. Add scallops and calamari. Scatter peas and let cook until the liquid is absorbed. Allow to rest off the heat for five minutes. Garnish with lemon wedges and pepper strips. The ideal paella has a toasted rice bottom called “socarrat.”
Additional notes from Karyn:
You really don’t need to serve anything else with a paella except maybe a simple salad and a dry Rose. You might even encourage guests to eat straight from the pan, the traditional way to eat paella. This is a labor-intensive dish probably best for special occasions, but the making of paella is an occasion by itself. It is rumored that the soccarat has aphrodisiac powers; so choose your guests wisely!
Happy Cooking!
Permalink | Comments (10) | Post your comment |
I Don’t Like Tarragon - or Maybe I Do
As a general rule, I don’t like tarragon. Maybe I don’t like it because of its “distinctive aniselike flavor.” For those who don’t recognize the word “anise” it is a plant that tastes like licorice. According to the Fourth Edition of Food Lover’s Companion, it is used to flavor drinks such as pastis, arrack, anisette, and Ouzo. Ouzo is a sweet anise-flavored (read “licorice”) liqueur from Greece.
When I was in Sweden, I sailed with a Swedish family who introduced me to Ouzo by the one-ounce portion - several one-ounce portions. The family told me Ouzo was the nectar of the Grecian sailors.
Almost exactly four hours after my introduction to Ouzo, this anise-flavored nectar, I got very sick. Maybe it was the rough sailing. I got so sick, in fact, that Ouzo, licorice, anise, and tarragon are all very disgusting to me - until last Friday evening.
Christy Rost, a chef and author of Where’s My Spatula and The Family Table came to Gourmet Gallery to teach a cooking class for us last Friday evening. She re-introduced me to tarragon in a simple emulsion of honey mustard, tarragon vinegar, fresh tarragon, and olive oil drizzled on delicately-steamed asparagus. It was like heaven in my mouth. The subtle herbal flavors blended beautifully before us all to create a simple, yet elegant dish.
Since then I have resurrected some of my pre-Ouzo incident (Let’s call it BO, Before Ouzo.) recipes. If I like my recipe for Perfect Tarragon Roast Chicken after I make it today, I will add it to this blog. Below is Christy Rost’s recipe for Asparagus with Honey-Tarragon Vinaigrette.
Perhaps I’m mature enough now to re-think tarragon.
White Asparagus with Honey-Tarragon Vinaigrette
From Where’s My Spatula by Christy Rost
1 pound white asparagus, rinsed and woody ends removed
1 teaspoon honey mustard
1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/8 teaspoon coarse salt
Fresh ground pepper melange (mix of various pepper corns)
1 sprig fresh tarragon leaves coarsley chopped
Place the asparagus in a large skillet, fill the pan with water to a depth of 1/4 inch, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Immediately reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer the asparagus 3 minutes, or until they are crisp-tender. Drain, set them aside, and keep warm, or, if preferred, transfer them to a plate, cover, and chill them 1 hour or overnight.
In a small bowl, combine honey mustard, tarragon vinegar, olive oil, salt, pepper melange, and fresh tarragon. Whisk until the dressing is very thick and emulsified. To serve, arrange the spears side by side on individual salad plates and spoon some of the vinaigrette across the middle of the spears.
I tried the Tarragon Roasted Chicken yesterday. I have to admit, I really liked it. Here is the recipe, which is a combination of “Perfect Roast Chicken” which I found in some magazine years ago, and my own best guess of how to add the fresh tarragon.
Tarragon Roast Chicken
2-3 pound chicken
2 think-skinned lemons, pierced in 8 or 9 places
1 large clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon coarse salt
2 tablespoons fresh tarragon, finely chopped
2 tablespoons butter, softened
Preheat oven to 400 F. Remove giblets and excess fat from chicken. Roll lemons to soften and pierce each with a skewer. Peel and crush garlic. Mash garlic and coarse salt in a small bowl; then blend in chopped tarragon and softened butter. Smear half of the garlic herb mixture in the cavity of the chicken. Put the lemons inside the cavity. Gently slide hand under skin on breast side of chicken. Rub garlic herb mixture under skin and on top of skin. Add one cup water to pan. Roast breast side up for 1 hour or until the drumstick just begins to move in socket. Allow chicken to rest for 15 minutes. Simmer the pan juices with 1/2 cup white wine and reduce to half for a lovely sauce to complement the dish.
Permalink | Comments (4) | Post your comment |
Goat Cheese and Chocolate
Several years ago I lived in Europe for a short time - in Belgium to be more specific, about 40 miles outside of Brussels in a small Flemish community called Eizer. Legally, I was not allowed to work in Belgium; so, I joined The American Women’s Club of Brussels. I had the opportunity to “apprentice” with the chef of the club.
Having something of an Ugly American mentality, I thought we in the States had it all. I thought we had the best of everything and imported what we didn’t. I was wrong, very wrong. Belgium had so much more to offer than my small American mind had ever realized. From chocolate to waffles to goat cheese to mussels, I cooked and ate and cooked and ate. (After all I had LOTS of spare time on my hands.)
I frequented one restaurant in Brussels so often for their goat cheese toasts on salad that it was usually waiting for me by the time I got to the table. (I also went there because they were tolerant of my wretched French.) The chef at the American Women’s Club shared the simple recipe. It is so pure and fresh, it seems ridiculous that it doesn’t show up on more menues here in the States. Maybe it does and I just don’t get out as much as I used to … . I think I’m ready to take a trip to Belgium. Next time - chocolate.
Salad of Fresh Greens and Goat Cheese Toasts with Herbs (Salade de Chevre Chaud)
The restaurant served three pieces of toast on each salad. Each toast had a different mix of herbs. See notes below*.
Salad
Fresh field greens with herbs
Vinaigrette
1/3 c olive oil
3 T apple cider vinegar
3 T rice wine vinegar
1 T mild dijon mustard
1 T honey
1 T dry white wine
Salt and pepper to taste
Whisk all ingredients together and toss with salad greens. This recipe is very versatile. If you like raspberry vinaigrette, replace the honey with 1/4 c raspberry preserves.
Goat Cheese Toasts
1 baguette of fresh French bread, sliced into 12 1/2 inch slices
6 oz mild goat cheese (such as Montchevre or Ile de France), sliced into 12 pieces
4 T extra virgin olive oil
*2 T fresh rosemary, chopped
*2 T dried Herbes de Provence (on the herb aisle)
*1 T fresh basil, chiffonade plus 1 T fresh parsley, finely chopped - mixed together
Heat oven to 325F. Spread approximately 1/2 oz goat cheese on each slice of bread. *Sprinkle one of the herb mixes on each toast top. Press lightly into goat cheese. Drizzle with olive oil. Bake for 5-7 minutes until warm.
Serve on top of fresh field greens tossed in vinaigrette.
Permalink | Comments (2) | Post your comment |
A Pinch of Nutmeg
I was helping my daughter with the “Tree Party” that her class was having - a seasonal celebration to learn about things that grow on trees. While her assignment was to bring chocolate chips, the foodie in me couldn’t let it rest at just chocolate chips. I like chocolate a lot, but I am not a chocoholic. (Many say that the love for chocolate is hereditary! My dad LOVES chocolate, but my mom could live without it.) I dug in the pantry searching for something more real than chocolate chips.
What I came up with was not chocolate at all, but was one of my favorite spices - nutmeg. On occasion I will purchase the powdered stuff, but I found “real McCoy,” whole nutmeg seed. I could get excited about this, much more so than about chocolate.
Like any good mom, I am trying to correct all my own deficiencies vicariously through my daughter. So, we began researching nutmeg. She even got excited about nutmeg. The Fourth Edition of FOOD LOVER’S COMPANION by Sharon Tyler Herbst and Ron Herbst says the following:
Nutmeg: When Columbus sailed from Spain looking for the East Indies, nutmeg was one of the spices for which he was searching. Native to the Spice Islands, this seed from the nutmeg tree (a tropical evergreen) was extremely popular throughout much of the world from the 15th to the 19th century. When the fruit of the tree is picked, it is split to reveal the nutmeg seed surrounded by a lacy membrane that, when dried and ground, becomes the spice MACE. The hard, egg-shaped nutmeg seed is grayish-brown and about 1 inch long. The flavor and aroma are delicately warm, spicy and sweet. Nutmeg is sold ground or whole. Whole nutmeg freshly ground with a nutmeg grater or grinder is superior to that which is commercially ground and packaged. Nutmeg is excellent when used in baked goods, mild- or cream-based preparations like custarrds, white sauces or eggnog and on fruits and vegetables - particularly potatoes, spinach and squash.
Wouldn’t it be great to be referred to as “delicately warm, spicy and sweet?” Adding a touch of nutmeg to Butternut Squash Soup or to Beef Stroganoff adds another dimension to its flavor. Its aroma flourishes in warm apple cider and hot spiced wine. Below is the best Butternut Squash Soup recipe I have ever tried. It is from the November 1996 issue of BON APPETIT. It only adds a pinch of nutmeg, but that pinch makes a big difference. Page 196 in this issue is always stuck to page 197 when I break it out to make it again - and again.
Butternut Squash Soup
5 T. butter
1 large onion, choppped
2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
4 cups (or more) canned low-salt chicken broth
Pinch of ground nutmeg
1/2 cup whipping cream
Additional ground nutmeg
Melt butter in heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute’ until tender, about 5 minutes. Add squash and saute’ 5 minutes. Add 4 cups broth and nutmeg. Cover and simmer until squash is tender, about 20 minutes
Working in batches, puree soup in blender until smooth. Return to same pan. Stir in cream. Bring soup to simmer. Season to taste with salt, pepper and additional nutmeg. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Before serving, rewarm over medium heat, thinning with more broth if necessary.)
Happy Cooking and Eating!
Permalink | Comments (5) | Post your comment |
Is It Soup Yet?
You have to try really hard not to like soups. I’m not talking about the canned stuff that tastes like preserved preservatives. I’m talking about the homemade kind with a fragrance that lifts spirits and calms nerves. Many are hearty enough for game days and filling enough for growing football players. Why not call this one “White Chili” instead of soup? That might be more appealing to younger audiences or to those who somehow have managed not to like soups. It’s fabulous cooked in a clay pot but any soup pot will do.
White Chili with Adobo
2 T. olive oil
2 T. garlic marinade
2 c. cooked chicken
1 T. adobo sauce (from canned chipotles)
3 c. chicken broth
2 cans Great Northern white beans
1 ½ t. cumin
½ c. fresh roasted Hatch chilies (or 2 small cans green chilies)
1 t. fresh-ground black pepper
½ onion, diced
6 sweet-hot sliced jalapeños, chopped
3 T. chopped cilantro
Cilantro, green onions and Monterrey Jack cheese for garnish
Heat olive oil over medium heat in a clay pot or Dutch oven. Add onion and sauté until soft. Add chicken, (Rotisserie chicken adds a nice flavor) beans, and broth, spices, garlic marinade, adobo sauce and cook until heated through. Add cilantro at the very end of cooking. Top with a Monterrey Jack, green onions and additional cilantro for garnish. Serve jalapeno cornbread or tortilla chips.
Permalink | Comments (1) | Post your comment |
Autumn Picnics in Texas
Although we often think of summer as the season for picnics, Texans know that autumn offers the best picnic weather available. A hike at Cameron Park followed by a loaf of crusty bread, some fall fruit and cheese, or an afternoon football game completed by a hearty tailgate picnic brings out that longed-for “Fall Feeling” we all have.
I love the flavors of tomatoes as summer ends and autumn begins. We have a few more weeks to enjoy them. That’s why a pesto, tomato, and cheese sandwich (see recipe below) brings just the right flavor for the advent of autumn. This is quick and easy and lets you get to the fun part of life.
Tomato, Pesto and Fresh Mozzarella Sandwiches
1 loaf crusty French Bread (sourdough is great, too)
1 large vine-ripened tomato
3 Tablespoons pesto (homemade is best. Email me for my favorite recipe)
Sliced Fresh Mozzarella
Slice French loaf long-wise. Spread pesto on both halves. Layer tomatoes and Buffalo Mozzarella. Top with other half of bread. You can also add some Kalamata olives or a little red wine vinegar for some extra zing. Assemble ahead of time, or just take the ingredients and throw it together at the park.
A nice sparkling water with lemon adds a sophisticated touch. Lori from Dicortes suggests adding an Australian Sauvignon Blanc. A Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara County is a good accompaniment as the air cools off. (As long as you are in a location that allows alcoholic beverages!) Either way, enjoy the change of seasons in nature and spend more time outside.
Even my 6-year-old daughter will eat this, but I save the wine for myself. :)
Happy Eating!
Latest comments
I do accept the apology, and I’m forgiving by “nuture,” I’ll think about sharing the recipe.
... read the full comment by Jo Ann | Comment on Autumn Picnics in Texas Read Autumn Picnics in Texas
Ruan: I think my mom emailed you with information about our classes. You are supposed to be on our email list, but in case I have dropped the ball, please check out our website at www.GourmetGalleryWaco.com. The “Classes” section either at the
... read the full comment by Karyn Miller | Comment on Fondue and Dog Treats Read Fondue and Dog Treats
This is the best blog of all. Very informative, very well written and very humorous. What about cooking classes?????
... read the full comment by Ruan Pearson | Comment on Fondue and Dog Treats Read Fondue and Dog Treats
Here’s a quick treatise on saffron, the world’s most expensive spice. You might ask, why is it so danged expensive? Well, saffron comes from a flower, the safron crocus. Inside each flower blossom are three tiny strands the color of smoked paprika.
... read the full comment by michael osborne | Comment on Paella Me! Read Paella Me!