There’s nothing like a long, hot summer to get people thinking about planting a tree for shade in the future — and fall is an excellent time to plant trees.

Unless you have the money to buy large, instant-shade trees, selecting a tree involves a little bit of planning.

For starters, check for utilities, both underground and overhead, when choosing a place for your new tree. The overhead ones are the easiest to work with. The underground ones mean you will need to call a locator service to determine if you can dig there.

Roots growing around the tree should be removed at time of planting to prevent damage to the tree as it grows.
Mark Barnett-Storms Nursery photo 

A phone number for this service usually is listed somewhere on your utility bill.

Once you’re at the garden center, a sale tree is good and a pretty tree is good, but neither should be the deciding factor. You need to look at the shape of the trunk and the health of the roots — the two most important considerations.

You want a trunk that is reasonably straight and extends all the way to the top of the tree so that it will grow tall and strong.

The branches need to be healthy but exact placement is not critical on small trees. You do not want a “Y” branch set or one that will look like an inverted umbrella.

If you can and the retailer agrees, tap the bucket off the root ball to look at the roots to see if the tree is well rooted and the roots are healthy. The roots need to be a nice white or off-white color, not dark brown or black.

Once you have the tree home, dig the planting hole no deeper than the length of the root ball from top to bottom.

Before planting, check the roots to make sure that they are not tightly wrapped around the root ball and no roots are wrapping around the trunk.

If the roots are thick and tight, loosen them some without ripping them to pieces, you just want to break that circle so that the roots can spread out into the surrounding soil better. If there is a root growing around the trunk of the tree you will need to cut it or remove it so that the tree can grow normally.

Depending on the quality of your soil, it may be beneficial to mix in compost for improved growth of the tree.

After you have the tree in the ground and the soil in place around it, use extra soil to make a ring around the tree just outside the edge of the hole in which it is planted.

This is to hold water so it does not run off away from the tree. Many people do not like the look of these “berms,” but they are important to help water soak deep into the root area of the tree as you water throughout the seasons. Always place the hose inside the ring and run it slowly.

I recommend a liquid root stimulator product for the planted tree. Follow the label instructions for your product and use it at least once a week for the first month, and at least once a month thereafter for the first growing season.

Should you need to stake your tree, be careful that the rope, cable, wire or string is not tied directly to the trunk. Run it through a rubber hose or tube to protect the trunk from damage.

Trees grow in the wild so well because they grow roots first, sometimes for several years.

With commercially-grown trees, the farms grow the top for us to see and purchase. It is up to us to grow the roots to support the tree.

This can take up to three or more years, depending on the soil and care given the tree.

Mark Barnett of Waco is certified by the Texas Association of Nursery Professionals. He has taught general landscaping and gardening since 1985.