Herb gardens flourish in fall
By Melody Fitzgerald Special to the Tribune-Herald
Experienced gardeners in Texas know that fall is an excellent time to garden. Once the weather has cooled, gardeners can plant cool season flowers and vegetables, shrubs, perennials and even trees.
What some people may not realize is that fall also is a great time to start an herb garden or expand an existing one.
As with other plants, the cooler yet mild days of fall provide a wonderful environment for growth for herbs. We usually have more days of beneficial rains, with less destructive winds than are common in the spring.

Mexican mint marigold adds color to a garden.
Any good herb bed must be well planned. For most herbs, you will need full sun. For all herbs, you will need good drainage.
Raised beds are ideal for herb gardens. Since many of your herbs will live for years, you only get one good chance to create the type of soil they need for optimal health.
Most herbs do not need to be fertilized, but a soil well prepared with compost will get them off to a good start.
An ideal soil is light and fluffy and slightly moist. A 3-inch layer of compost spread over the bed, then tilled in should give your herbs a great start.
When you pick out herbs, choose only plants that are free of insect and disease problems. Try to find plants that do not have roots growing through the holes in the bottom of the pot. This indicates they are past the best time to be transplanted to the garden.
When you plant, it is a good idea to first dig the hole in your well-prepared soil, pour in a cup of water, then quickly remove your herb from the pot.
It is almost always beneficial to pull the roots out a little so they are not still in the shape of the pot in which they were growing. Pull any encircling roots out so they are no longer binding the other roots. Do this quickly, then place them in the hole.
Cover with soil up to the level they were growing in the pot and water well. You do not need to fertilize.
Be sure that you space herbs so they will not be too crowded when they are fully grown. Poor air circulation from plants that are too tightly spaced can promote diseases such as powdery mildew.
After planting, cover the soil between the plants with 2 inches of mulch. Increase this to 3 inches in the summer.
Melody Fitzgerald is a McLennan County Master Gardener.
MORE IN LAWNS & GARDENS »
Tips from Master Gardeners
- Garden Q&A: Vegetables, garden drainage, fertilizing lawn
- Garden Q&A: Gardens, perennials, trees and more
- Garden Q&A: Hard for trees to recover when roots grow into limestone
- Garden Q&A: Grubs, begonias, Cypress trees and weedy lawns
- Garden Q&A: Dying pansies may be result of pill bugs
- Garden Q&A: Fruit trees need deep watering to be revived
- Garden Q&A: No escaping need for water
- Garden Q&A: Don't worry about bark loss on crape myrtles
- Garden Q&A: Weed control will help fight stickers
- Garden Q&A: Holly leaves will drop if over watered
- Garden Q&A: Yellow leaves mean blight
- Garden Q&A: Finding grubs normal as spring starts
- Garden Q&A: Exotic plants can have it rough
- Garden Q&A: Wrapping palms not enough when cold spells last too long
- Garden Q&A: Should trees be planted in high or low land?
- Garden Q&A: Is goat manure safe?
- Garden Q&A: Careful when trimming near crape myrtles
- Garden Q&A: Careful when prepping roots for planting
- Garden Q&A: Why didn't amaryllis bloom?
- Garden Q&A: When pansies are wilting
- Garden Q&A: Trimming crape myrtles won't hurt growth
- Garden Q&A: Christmas cactus is tricky to water
- Garden Q&A: Don't fertilize plants during winter months
- Garden Q&A: Box elder bugs little more than a nuisance
- Garden Q&A: Now is the time to give lawn a winter feeding
- Garden Q&A: Scaly flakes on stems bugging area gardeners
- Garden Q&A: Fall's first frost
- Garden Q&A: Fungal disease afflicts tree
- Garden Q&A: Cotton root rot strikes
- Garden Q&A: Mushrooms ugly but harmless
- Garden Q&A: Grassbur headache in lawn
- Garden Q&A: Crape myrtle seed pods
- Garden Q&A: Problems with new sod
- Garden Q & A: Crape myrtles and aphids
- Garden Q&A: Trees for Central Texas
- Garden Q&A: Burning does not control viruses
- Garden Q&A: Dig a few inches to check water needs
- Garden Q&A: Season for cinch bugs
- Garden Q&A: Crape myrtles blooming beautifully
- Garden Q&A: Nursing caladiums through summer
- Garden Q&A: Getting rid of perennial vine
- Garden Q&A: Holes in plant leaves
- Garden Q&A: Aphids or mites could cause cedar problems
- Garden Q&A: Lemon, orange trees can grow in containers
- Garden Q&A: Seek tomato plants suited to temperatures
- Garden Q&A: More on tomato plants, pruning, plant sickness and soil tests
- Garden Q&A: Tips to keep tomato plants strong
- Garden Q&A: Clean sand best to level lawn
- Garden Q&A: Fungal disease is difficult to eradicate
- Garden Q&A: Ridding flower beds of poison vines
- Garden Q&A: Pruning live oaks
- Garden Q&A: What can I grow well in the shade?
- Garden Q&A: Did winter kill off date palms?
- Garden Q&A: When is the right time to plant caladiums?
- Garden Q&A: Shrubs, getting rid of dallisgrass and weeds, soil tips
Ask a Master Gardener Help Line
Spring gardening brings many questions, such as when should I fertilize my lawn, or which are the best vegetables for Waco? Get answers to these and other questions by calling the Ask a Master Gardener Help Line at 254-757-5180, 1-4 p.m. Tuesdays and Thursdays.






